The room last night only had 6 pilgrims, but the quarters were really tight. I don’t think the room was as big as my office at the church. The bunk beds had to be super close together to fit in there. Plus, they had the lowest clearance of any so far — I couldn’t even sit on my bottom bunk all slouched over without hitting my head!
The bathroom that served us 6 pilgrims, plus another 2 pilgrims who were in a private adjacent room, only had one toilet and one shower. It was accessed by a sliding door just to the left of the head of my bed. Which put the toilet exactly in line with my head, of course separated by a wall.
Now, some walls (that are insulated) do a good job of deadening sounds. Other walls, however, just seem to amplify the sound. The wall between my head and the toilet was one that amplified the sounds! But, as a pilgrim, if you are going to survive the Camino, you pretty much have to lose your sense of pride!
Having my head right by a wall that allowed me to hear every bathroom noise made it quite the interesting night to say the least! I am grateful that one of the sounds that I initially thought was an earthquake coming, was completely harmless — well, mostly harmless! 😂
But then, add in the fact that in our very small room was an extremely talented snorer. He occupied my top bunk. The low clearance made his head not much more than 2 feet above mine, and my ear plugs were not even close to being able to filter out his unique snores. They started out with a vicious growl that you might attribute to a Rottweiler, but then ended up with a pitiful sound like he was on life support. Between the bathroom sounds and the snoring right above my head, I was glad for 5:30 am to roll around so I could get out of there!
Trail was really dark this morning
For those pilgrims who set their goal to walk only the Camino de Santiago, their finish line is Santiago de Compostela. An interesting fact: According to the Camino Pilgrim’s Office, a whopping 99% of all pilgrims end their pilgrimage at Santiago! Surprisingly, only 1% will choose to continue their walk to Finisterre.
Sarria, a city of 13,000 people where tonight I will pillow my head in my 30th bed over the last 30 days, officially begins the homestretch to Santiago. This means that from now on, in order to receive one’s completion certificate called the “Compostela,” instead of just getting one stamp at every place we spend the night, we are now required to get two stamps in our Pilgrim Passport from two different places of business. So, in Santiago, they will be checking to make sure we have received ten stamps over these last five stages.
Also, the pilgrim numbers will dramatically increase as of tomorrow, as many new people begin their pilgrimage at Sarria. Those who are unable to carve out 6 weeks from their schedules, or those who are physically unable to walk the entire distance, will begin their pilgrimage here. The Camino officials have made allowances for them to also receive a Compostela, or certificate, for the segment they walked. So my pilgrim family is about to get a lot bigger!
I’ll admit I don’t look forward to the larger crowds. The large group that started in St. Jean Pied de Port has lessened considerably over the past 400 miles. But maybe the crowds are part of God’s plan to teach me more pilgrim lessons on the Camino. I am glad I secured lodging for this homestretch 10-12 days ago — it would be impossible to book anything now!
Today’s stage of approximately 12 miles was the shortest I have had for a couple of weeks! But just because it was shorter didn’t mean it was easy. The book warned me it wouldn’t be easy. The trail went up and down and up and down. So the shorter distance was neutralized by many elevation changes.
Notice the sky on the top right
A church where I stopped and prayed for our church in Missouri
Besides the incredible predawn show that God blessed me with in the skies, and the daytime scenery he blessed me with on the ground, the highlight on the trail was a little roadside stand that I certainly wasn’t expecting. A couple, who I assume were husband and wife, had set up an area in their yard to rest and relax, along with providing food options, including fruit, toast, granola, nuts, coffee, tea etc. And it was all by donation! They had couches and chairs and even a meditation room. It was crude and simple, but a welcomed stop! Their cafe con leche and homemade granola were excellent! My 20 minutes there were definitely therapeutic. I’ll include some pictures of this place that provided my only rest stop on the Camino today.
The trail was more of the wonderful experience it has been the last few days. Great views and great trails, affording great opportunities to connect with the Lord. My focus is still toning my soul.
One thing that hit me today: As I explained to you earlier, in order to get your Compostela (certificate of completion) for the Camino, you have to have all the right stamps or seals in your Pilgrim Passport — but that system doesn’t work on the Camino to heaven. You can’t get enough seals to get in! It’s only through Jesus’ grace and mercy — His forgiveness is the only seal we need! But that’s actually good, because that means we all can qualify. We may not be good enough, but He is! I am so grateful I have received His seal of pardon in my spiritual passport on the Camino of life!
Buen Camino!
Approximate total miles: 560
Approximate miles walked today: 12
Approximate miles remaining: 145