Today, I experienced a first on the Camino de Santiago.
I experienced my very first average cup of coffee.
Now, it wasn’t horrible — I’ve made much worse at home — but for the high standards that the Camino baristas have, the coffee was very average. But after walking 8-9 miles, I still enjoyed it, and drank every drop! I graciously thanked the barista and left. Well, wouldn’t you know that no more than a block away, in that same town, beckoning me with a loud voice, was another coffee shop!
You know, sometimes you hear a voice inside your head, and it might mean you need to go in for 96 hours of lockdown. But other times that voice needs to be listened to. And I did listen when the voice said, “Joe, go get another cup of coffee — and do it now!” I never want to ignore voices that might be the voice of the Lord! 😏
I marched in and ordered a café con leche. I thought, “After that average cup of coffee, I deserve to treat myself.” I surveyed all the goodies behind the glass counter. I pointed to the type of goodie I wanted and the barista chose a piece that was big enough to serve half a dozen people! But then to further prove that this stop was of God, the barista grabbed another pastry and put it on the plate as well - that was his treat! Now, ladies and gentleman, that was an excellent stop, with excellent coffee and excellent pastries. It was good to be a pilgrim on the Camino del Santiago!
The bonus coffee, with the bonus-sized pastry, AND the bonus pastry!
Putting that aside, today was a fairly significant day on the Camino. It was not necessarily significant because of the terrain — again the terrain was fairly unremarkable. I did see some fields of corn, whereas over the past couple of weeks I have mainly seen crops of sunflowers.
Most of the trail took me by an asphalt road, which meant traffic and noise. So the trail was okay, but not great. What made the day significant was the town of Sahagún. Now as you pronounce this town in your mind, don’t forget that the “h” is silent, but that is probably a detail that is rather irrelevant for you. This town has some historical relevance — in the 4th century, it found itself in the middle of battles between Muslims and Christians. It changed hands, I believe, five different times.
What makes Sahagún significant for pilgrims today is that this is considered to be the halfway point on the Camino de Santiago. Provided you began your journey in the French town of Saint Jean Pied de Port and you go to Santiago de Compostela, Sahagún is roughly halfway. If you have the extra energy to venture up a hill 200 to 300 yards, there is a church that will give you a certificate indicating that you’re halfway. Frankly, I don’t know why they put the location of something like that so far off the trail — I mean, on a day like today where I am walking 15 miles, it is not super appealing to walk up a hill 200-300 yards, and then walk down the hill 200-300 yards just for someone to give you a piece of paper saying you have reached the halfway point.
Long walk up the hill for a certificate
The pre-Camino rush-rush Joe would not have done it. But as I’m trying to slow down and enjoy the small things, I did take that scenic tour. As I went into the church, the first thing the lady asked for was my credential, or my Pilgrim Passport. She surveyed it to make sure that I had started at the right place and had completed all the correct stages. She then began to fill out my certificate and handed it to me. It was a nice enough certificate!
Officially halfway to Santiago
There was a young German lady there, and I asked her to take my picture showing it off, which she did. Then I returned the favor for her.
Typically certificates don’t mean much to me. The certificates I have received down through life for the few accomplishments I’ve achieved are not on my walls. They are stuffed in a closet or were thrown in the trash long ago. But for today I was proud of this certificate! It represents a tough day of climbing over the Pyrenees mountains. It also represents every muscle in my body angry at me for putting them through the rigor of this pilgrimage. It represents the tough days of dealing with the respiratory infection and fever that has weakened my body. I was pleased!
Now again, this is not the halfway point to Finisterre (the Atlantic Ocean, or “end of the earth”) — if I do indeed continue there, I will need another three days or so to reach that halfway point. But for right now, this was a good accomplishment.
When I started out, my goal was not just to reach the halfway point. My goal was to finish. We’ll see if God gives me strength. I certainly don’t take things for granted. I could still get blisters, I could still twist an ankle, I could still blow out a knee — there are many things that could derail the second half of this pilgrimage. But I still have my eyes on the finish line! If God gives me strength and health, I want to finish!
But on a much deeper and more important level, when it comes to the Camino of life, I also want to finish well! There have been too many people who have started well, but along the way have gotten off track. As I approach what could be the last few stages of my life, I don’t want to get off track - I want to finish well!
In life, I recognize I haven’t done everything right. I’ve had plenty of mess-ups. My dad had a saying that he would quote. When he would mess up, or when someone else would mess up, he would say, “That was goof number 14!” But the problem with me is that goof number 14 took place decades ago. I can’t even count high enough to put a number on my goof-ups now.
But just as I want to finish the Camino de Santiago well, I also want to finish the Camino of life well! The halfway or even 2/3 or 3/4 certificate on my Camino of life that I’m eligible for right now, doesn’t mean a thing! The apostle Paul talked about finishing the course! So as God today challenged me to finish my life well, I pass that challenge on to you. Some of you are in the early stages of your camino of life. Others of you are maybe halfway. Still others of you may be reaching that last stage or two. Stay the course! Keep the faith. Finish well! That is what will give you the crown of righteousness. Thanks for joining me on the Camino today!
Approximate total miles: 560
Approximate miles walked today: 15
Approximate miles remaining: 295 (to Finisterre- “end of the earth”, the Atlantic Ocean )